In a market flooded with options, choosing skincare that actually works comes down to the ingredients. Active ingredients are the science-backed elements in your skincare formulas that do the heavy lifting — treating acne, fading dark spots, boosting hydration, and reducing signs of aging.
But not all actives are created equal. Here are five of the most effective and widely recommended active ingredients in clinical and cosmetic dermatology — including how they work, who they benefit, and our go-to product picks for real results.
1. Retinoids: Vitamin A Powerhouses
What They Are:
Retinoids are derivatives of vitamin A that accelerate skin cell turnover, regulate oil production, and stimulate collagen production at the dermal level. They include retinyl esters, retinol, retinaldehyde, and prescription-strength retinoic acid.
How They Work:
They bind to retinoid receptors in the skin to promote faster cell renewal and increased collagen synthesis. This results in smoother texture, improved tone, and fewer visible lines over time.
Ideal For:
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Fine lines and wrinkles
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Acne and congestion
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Rough or uneven texture
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Post-inflammatory pigmentation
Top Picks at Face Club:
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AVST Moisturizer 1 - general skin health
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Osmosis Correct Retinal Serum - advanced aging and pigmentation
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Osmosis Clarify - acne and congestion
2. Vitamin C: Brightening Antioxidant Defender
What It Is:
A potent antioxidant that protects against free radical damage, evens out pigmentation, and boosts collagen synthesis.
How It Works:
Vitamin C neutralizes oxidative stress caused by UV exposure and pollution. It also inhibits tyrosinase — the enzyme responsible for melanin production — helping fade existing pigmentation.
Ideal For:
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Dullness and fatigue
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Hyperpigmentation and sun damage
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Uneven tone
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Skin prone to oxidative stress
Top Picks at Face Club:
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AVST Moisturizer 1 - this contains low levels of Vitamin C to deliver results without irritation
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Mela-Even Cream - this Vitamin C booster can be mixed into your AVST for increased Vitamin C levels
3. Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs): Gentle Exfoliation for Radiance
What They Are:
Water-soluble acids like glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acid that exfoliate the outer layer of the skin.
How They Work:
AHAs break down the bonds between skin cells, allowing them to shed more easily. This reveals fresher, smoother skin underneath and enhances the absorption of other actives.
Ideal For:
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Dullness and rough texture
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Mild acne and congestion
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Early signs of aging
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Hyperpigmentation
Top Picks at Face Club:
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Concentrated Alpha-Hydroxy Acid Toner - for advanced aging, pigmentation, or acne-scarring
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Derma-Lac Lotion - for dull, dry, dehydrated skin
4. Peptides: Messaging Molecules for Firmness and Repair
What They Are:
Chains of amino acids that serve as “messengers” to trigger collagen production, skin repair, and barrier strengthening.
How They Work:
Different peptides mimic various naturally occurring skin signals — like wound healing or collagen production — stimulating the skin to respond accordingly. Some peptides also have anti-inflammatory or moisturizing properties.
Ideal For:
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Loss of elasticity
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Fine lines and wrinkles
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Redness and sensitivity
Top Picks at Face Club:
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Avance Elixir - for pigmentation and aging
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AVST Moisturizer 3 and above - contains collagen stimulating peptides
5. Azelaic Acid: The Multi-Corrector for Sensitivity and Blemishes
What It Is:
A naturally occurring acid found in grains, azelaic acid has antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and melanin-inhibiting properties.
How It Works:
It reduces the production of keratin (which can clog pores), kills acne-causing bacteria, and inhibits abnormal melanocyte activity, making it effective for both acne and pigmentation.
Ideal For:
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Rosacea and redness
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Dark spots and scarring
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Sensitive or reactive skin
Top Picks at Face Club:
- Anfisa An-Dew Azelaic Acid + PHA Serum - this is our secret weapon for reducing redness and improving skin texture. Gently exfoliates and decongests without being harsh or stripping. All skin would benefit from this serum.
Choosing the Right Active for You
It’s not just about what’s popular — it’s about what your skin needs. Choosing the right actives depends on your skin type, concerns, and tolerance. Some may do best with one active at a time, while others benefit from a multi-step regimen.
If you’re unsure how to get started, book a virtual consultation with our team. We’ll personalize a routine that supports your long-term skin goals — backed by science, driven by experience.